Okay, I’ve heard lots of people asking lately, “How do I hide my beard shadow?” I decided I would ask a pro because I also wanted to know. It took a bit of courage, but I rang a local store where I’ve bought makeup from before. I’ll let you in on a secret – I already bought some items to help with this very issue. There is an article floating around on CDH that talked about it, but I wasn’t sure how to use it correctly. This is about me learning as much as possible and passing on that knowledge to you.
Okay…big disclaimer. I’m not trained in any way. My makeup skills are akin to that of a bar room brawl between a panda and a raccoon… I’m getting better with practice; seems that’s the key.
First thing was to find a place that’s easy to deal with and understands the issues we face. My store of choice is a makeup supplier for makeup artists (Minifies), they’re also open to the public and are awesome. They deal with members of the Trans and CD community and are easy to talk with and fun to learn with (Thanks Christie – you rock!!)
The products I used on the lesson day were Kryolan and Ben Nye; international products so they may be available wherever you are. If the products you purchase are different than you’ve been using, you should try them out on a small part of skin to make sure you won’t have a reaction to the them.
Okay, here we go…
Clean shaven, smooth as can be. Using a blade is probably better than an electric razor, but not 100% necessary. If your face gets a bit red from the shave, it’s better to let it settle before applying makeup.
Next, a primer for the face. I used a Kryolan HD micro primer, but any brand will do. This just sets the base for everything to build on. Concealing the beard shadow is the main purpose. This is usually a bluish tint but can vary. For me, it is bluish, so I used Ben Nye “5 o Sharp” concealer. Now this was a surprise because it’s quite orange. This is to offset the blue (opposites on the colour wheel cancel out.) You can brush it on using a small brush or use your finger to dab it on – this warms the product, which makes it easier to apply. A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAY! What we are after is a slight tint of orange or the colour you’ve used, not a bright orange face.
Our topcoat…kind of (we will add to this later). For the foundation, I used NB2 Kryolan Ultra Foundation. Make sure this is matched to your skin colour. A helpful staff member will make this easier, so be brave, it will save the hassle of buying multiple shades to get the right one. When applying the foundation, it’s important not to rub it over the beard cover area as you can mix the orange pigment with the foundation to create a weird colour that will then need to be covered… You want your makeup to be light and as thin as possible so it doesn’t crack or peel off.
Now last bit is to set the foundation. Depending on the foundation used, there are several setting options. I used a translucent setting powder with a powder puff, but there are sprays that can do a similar job.
Let’s add some colour to our fabulously smooth, shadow free face. (see cover photo)
A bronzer adds warmth and a natural colour to give a natural look to the face, as well as to define the cheek bones. A dash of blusher adds a little more natural appearance. Depending on your face shape, be careful of adding too many contours. A face with deep defined contours can look very masculine; be wary of this when trying for your desired look.
Some Lippy, mascara, and colour to open the eyes, plus a little work on the eyebrows and you’re done. Maybe the next part of this journey will take a look at the eyes.