Beard Shadow be gone

Okay, I’ve heard lots of people asking lately, “How do I hide my beard shadow?”  I decided I would ask a pro because I also wanted to know.  It took a bit of courage, but I rang a local store where I’ve bought makeup from before. I’ll let you in on a secret – I already bought some items to help with this very issue. There is an article floating around on CDH that talked about it, but I wasn’t sure how to use it correctly. This is about me learning as much as possible and passing on that knowledge to you.

Okay…big disclaimer.  I’m not trained in any way. My makeup skills are akin to that of a bar room brawl between a panda and a raccoon… I’m getting better with practice; seems that’s the key.

First thing was to find a place that’s easy to deal with and understands the issues we face.  My store of choice is a makeup supplier for makeup artists (Minifies), they’re also open to the public and are awesome.  They deal with members of the Trans and CD community and are easy to talk with and fun to learn with (Thanks Christie – you rock!!)

The products I used on the lesson day were Kryolan and Ben Nye; international products so they may be available wherever you are. If the products you purchase are different than you’ve been using, you should try them out on a small part of skin to make sure you won’t have a reaction to the them.

Okay, here we go…

Clean shaven, smooth as can be. Using a blade is probably better than an electric razor, but not 100% necessary. If your face gets a bit red from the shave, it’s better to let it settle before applying makeup.

Next, a primer for the face. I used a Kryolan HD micro primer, but any brand will do. This just sets the base for everything to build on. Concealing the beard shadow is the main purpose. This is usually a bluish tint but can vary.  For me, it is bluish, so I used Ben Nye “5 o Sharp” concealer.   Now this was a surprise because it’s quite orange. This is to offset the blue (opposites on the colour wheel cancel out.)   You can brush it on using a small brush or use your finger to dab it on – this warms the product, which makes it easier to apply. A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAY! What we are after is a slight tint of orange or the colour you’ve used, not a bright orange face.

Our topcoat…kind of (we will add to this later). For the foundation, I used NB2 Kryolan Ultra Foundation. Make sure this is matched to your skin colour. A helpful staff member will make this easier, so be brave, it will save the hassle of buying multiple shades to get the right one. When applying the foundation, it’s important not to rub it over the beard cover area as you can mix the orange pigment with the foundation to create a weird colour that will then need to be covered…  You want your makeup to be light and as thin as possible so it doesn’t crack or peel off.

Now last bit is to set the foundation. Depending on the foundation used, there are several setting options.  I used a translucent setting powder with a powder puff, but there are sprays that can do a similar job.

Let’s add some colour to our fabulously smooth, shadow free face. (see cover photo)

A bronzer adds warmth and a natural colour to give a natural look to the face, as well as to define the cheek bones. A dash of blusher adds a little more natural appearance. Depending on your face shape, be careful of adding too many contours. A face with deep defined contours can look very masculine; be wary of this when trying for your desired look.

Some Lippy, mascara, and colour to open the eyes, plus a little work on the eyebrows and you’re done.   Maybe the next part of this journey will take a look at the eyes.

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Sarah Daniels

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Jayne Bennett
Jayne Bennett (@jaynebrayne)
10 months ago

… a few more pointers. Use a ladies’ pink razor (Venus): it will take your whiskers off until your face is baby smooth although it can be a bit sharp to begin with. I usually leave off shaving for a day or two to let my skin recover from “razor burn”. Nivea lotion is good both to soften the beard before makeup and for after you take your makeup off. Slap it on good and thick. After a scalding hot shower, I apply QV Gentle Wash as a moisturiser and pat it dry. Then it’s over to the makeup table… Read more »

Jayne Bennett
Jayne Bennett (@jaynebrayne)
10 months ago

Firstly I lasered as much of my beard as possible. Then I bought a heavy concealer online to cover my philtrum, chin, chin-line and the edges of my lips. Now the foundation goes on and, voila! you can’t notice a thing. Ideal for passing …

Gerri Aka Niall
Gerri Aka Niall (@gerri)
10 months ago

I usually shave, after a shower ( bath is better but not all have baths in their house / circumtances ), as the hot water opens up the pores on the face, due to the higher temp. So shower, shave face, come out of bathroom to allow body temp returns to normal ( say 15-20 mins ), good wee way to make a coffee, have a ciggie / vape and catch-up on things on-line esp if planning a meeting doe the toenails etc. Close shave again !!!!! When sure face has returned to “normal” after the heat of the shower… Read more »

Louise Rose
Louise Rose (@louiserose1954)
10 months ago

Having been around since the 90s, I remember Kryolan and Ben Nye. Surprised they are still around. Great article.

Anne Preuss
Active Member
Anne Preuss (@annepreuss)
10 months ago

Very interesting article with helpful tips. My desire to feminize is so strong, that I already have opted for laser which eliminated the dark hairs on my face. Unfortunately, I did not start this process until I was 61 yo so I am now undergoing electrolysis to remove the grey hairs which laser does not affect. Electrolysis is a long, arduous process and expensive (laser is expensive too). My recommendation to those who are considering laser….the younger you are, the better before grey hair takes over your face. I will be spending quite a few dollars but my goal in… Read more »

Pfifer Zhang
Pfifer Zhang (@pfiferzhang)
11 months ago

Thanks a bunch Sarah, I’ve tried pink and orange concealers but I can’t get the shadow to disappear. I did manage to make my whole face look like a hostess snowball (turns out you shouldn’t share sponges with your foundation lol!). My wife is convinced orange should work so I may try this out. I must say though your shadow is hard to see even before you apply makeup.

Pfifer Zhang
Pfifer Zhang (@pfiferzhang)
10 months ago
Reply to  Sarah Daniels

I may be able to try some out at Sephora.
11 months ago

Great Article Sarah and a real benefit for those here who haven’t started IPL Treatment or Electrolysis.
Thanks for sharing xx

Autumn Sky
Autumn Sky (@autumnsky1572)
11 months ago

this is wonderful

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